The Neptune was our first model. We made it as an ode to the midcentury dive watch, which had a sophisticated versatility that made it a natural fit with everything from a wetsuit to a tux. With its design, it seemed to say that it was ready to go wherever its wearer was willing to take it, and do a stylish job along the way.

It’s that do-it-all flair we wanted to capture with the Neptune. It’s got a classic size, an old-school plexi bubble dome crystal, a charming big crown, and the feeling like you took it straight out of a time machine set to 1964.

For most of us, a classically-styled midcentury dive watch is an impossible dream. Obtaining one and getting it running is difficult enough (not to mention expensive). Using it for its original intended purpose is another challenge entirely.

The Neptune was our dream come true. With it, we could make something that has the style of dive watch icons and the substance that made them legendary.

The great thing about dive watches was that they worked just as well above sea level as they did below.

To the left, Captain Robert Maloubier of the French Navy with his Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which he helped develop. To the right, Sean Connery as James Bond, wearing his trademark Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 in a press picture for Dr. No .

Our favorite midcentury divers, each one an icon in its own right, served as the starting point for the Neptune's design.

Left to right:

Omega Seamaster ref. CK14755

Blancpain Bathyscaphe ref. MC4

Rolex Submariner ref. 6538

Photos: Analog/Shift + Sotheby's

A small change can make a big difference. The dial opening and bezel diameter of Series III (left) are now 1mm smaller to give the Neptune a more layered and dimensional look. Its big crown remains the same size, but now has bigger teeth for better lightplay. 

While Series III retains a bubbly round dome, it now sits at a lower height, making more consistent distortions (note the minute ticks on the respective dials).

The Series III (left) features a reshaped case; its lugs are now more curved, 1mm shorter with more dramatic polished chamfers on its sides.

But perhaps the most noticeable difference is its thinness, with a case height of only 10.3mm, and an overall thickness of 12.7 mm with its dome crystal (Series II has a 12mm case and 15mm overall height). This gives it more of a skindiver profile, as opposed to Series II’s “submarine-on-the-wrist” (Sean Connery’s 6538 submariner was nearly 16mm tall). For practical reasons, its new measurements should make it easier to wear for most.

New to Series III, the Neptune's caseback now features the Lorier logo engraved in a circular motif, reminiscent of a laurel crown.

The center section is left blank, as a canvas for the wearer’s own personal expression: the watch becoming a true companion and a unique piece of its wearer’s personal history. 

There’s a reason why vintage watch lovers swear by Hesalite. It has an optical warmth and quality that other materials can’t match.

But it’s more than just aesthetics: it doesn’t suffer from glare or smudges to the same degree as sapphire. It’s better against impact. Its weakness— scratches—can easily be taken care of with a little Polywatch. For us, this reinforces the idea that a watch has a special connection to its owner, making it the better choice for a one watch collection, even today. 

The Miyota 90S5 is a time-only variant in the movement manufacturer’s 9 series “Premium Automatics.” It is considerably more expensive to manufacture than the Seiko NH series we used in previous generations because of its thinness (which allows for the Series III’s more refined design) and higher beat rate (which gives the seconds hand a smoother sweep, and helps with timekeeping accuracy).

It compares well with its Swiss counterparts, the ETA 2824/SW200. A newer design (2009 vs. 1982), the Miyota 9 is both thinner (3.9mm vs. 4.6mm), and more reliable, with significantly lower failure rates. We would be willing to wager that if the 90S5 had a “Swiss” badge, all else being equal, it would easily cost twice its price.

Some may fuss over its loud rotor, reminiscent of a Valjoux/ETA 7750. Others like that it reminds them that there is something mechanical on their wrist. In any case, the Miyota 9 is an excellent series of movements, making a high level of robustness and refinement accessible to most of us.  

Versatility in design means that the Neptune can take on a variety of looks. The caselines flow seamlessly with virtually any strap: whether nylon, perlon, shark mesh, or even leather.

The worth of a watch isn’t determined by where it’s from, but by where it goes. So we made the Neptune to go with you, wherever life takes you. With its sleek, classic lines, its design is versatile enough for any occasion and any adventure. With its robust specs, it will serve you for years to come.

And that’s how it has to be. Watch brands will often speak of heritage. But we don't think history should be bought and sold. It’s up to you to make it.

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